We arrived at Bontoc late in the morning in surprisingly balmy weather after a slow and rather bumpy one hour ride from Sagada. The capital of Mountain Province has long been awake and its market and town center were lively and bustling, quite unlike the laid-back atmosphere in Sagada. Bontoc was on the way to our next destination, the more popular Banaue Rice Terraces, so we decided to spend one night in its town to find out what it has to offer.
After checking in our things at Ridgebrooke, a lodge on the quiet eastern side of the Chico River, we walked back to the town center with our daypacks, all excited to visit some Bontoc villages up in the terraces. We caught the last morning jeepney and wound our way up the steep and windy dirt road to Maligcong. The jeepney was packed with passengers, rice bags, plants and other bits and bobs and I was glad we had chosen to sit on the roof. We got an unobstructed view of the Chico River cutting through the forest and its very own rice terraces.
It was here where we first met a friendly local villager who helped us with bits of information about Maligcong. Upon reaching the jump-off point to the village, we started following the other locals who were carrying food supplies and produce on their head while walking confidently on the narrow stone-walled terraces. The scenery was breathtaking it could even rival that of Banaue and Batad. Later on the trail we caught up again with Kuya carrying a chicken tucked under his arm, and upon learning that we were looking for a place to buy food, he invited us to visit his house and have lunch there.
Starting the fire
His kids greeted us as we approached their wooden cabin situated atop a grassy hill. It was surrounded by vegetable patch and had a magnificent view of the rice terraces; it was postcard perfect from every angle. After showing us around his humble shelter, he invited us to sit outside at what looked like a bonfire pit surrounded by flat wooden stones. The whole set up reminded me of scenes from tribal rituals of the Igorots and other ethnic tribes where they dance and feast to ask for their deities’ guidance.
Chicken is put into an open fire to burn off the feathers.
His kids started to build a fire while Kuya emerged from his cabin with the chicken in one hand and a stick on the other. He told us he would prepare Pinikpikan, and before I could mutter another question, he started beating the live chicken until it was dark and blue before throwing it into the open fire. Apparently, the dish derives its flavor from the coagulated blood, the burned feathers and skin, and the Etag, which is a cured meat, aged under-ground in earthen jars.
They then plucked the remaining feathers and washed away the soot and dirt before meticulously slicing it making sure not to waste any part including the intestines, innards and head which were all thrown into the boiling soup after they were cleaned. After one look at the internal organs of the chicken and reading its prophecy, he relayed to us the good fortune that awaited us all. Whatever it was, I was thankful to the liver and bile of the chicken which apparently sealed our fate in good light, otherwise we would have all ended hungry had it given a bad omen.
The soup started to boil and thicken and I realized no vegetables were going to grace the pot after minutes of stewing. Pinikpikan was an all-star chicken no less, something like Tinola minus the veggies. I wasn’t a picky eater but after seeing how it was prepared and what went into the pot, my adventurous spirit started to falter. But when its aromatic flavor started to tickle my nostrils I was reminded that I hadn’t really eaten anything that day except for the frozen yoghurt I bought down in Bontoc.
Partaking in the feast
One of the boys brought out the pot of rice, eating utensils and a basin of water to wash our hands. And just like that, after saying our thanks giving prayer, we all partook in a feast of Pinikpikan like kindred tribal villagers celebrating friendship and good luck. It was my first time to try Pinikpikan and I was grateful to have tried it here in the magnificent rice terraces of Bontoc.
“The preparation of Pinikpikan is a ritual performed by Cordillera tribes to determine the appropriate courses of action and their fate. It takes hours of careful work to prepare an authentic Pinikpikan. It’s name was derived from the process of light beating called ‘Pikpik.”
This is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling In The Philippines” hosted by Anton Diaz of Our Awesome Planet.
Had my first Pinikpikan too in Sagada but I wasn’t able to watch their preparation. I so love the rice terraces when the fields are all green, such a sight to remember for a long time.
I agree Marky, the terraces are at their best when they’re all green and lush.
Wow! I didn’t know you went to Maligcong rice terraces. You’re right, Claire. It could rival that of Banaue’s and Batad’s. I worked in Bontoc for two years. Was there an “etag,” the famous igorot smoked meat, in your pinikpikan? Pinikpikan tastes best with an etag in it, trust me, hehe
Nice workplace you got there! It wasn’t as popular as Banaue and Batad but I think Bontoc Rice Terraces are just as spectacular. (Yep Kuya put etag in the pinikpikan, I remember him putting some kind of dry meat in the boiling soup
wow, saya tignan. very authentic pinikpikan-eating ah! sa terraces pa!
We only ate this in an eatery in Sagada which reminds me na andami ko pang backlogs. hehe. I should finish my write-up soon for the blog carnival soon. hehe
Yeah the whole experience made it memorable for us. We were quite thrilled to try pinikpikan right in the terraces of Bontoc .
few restaurants in Baguio offer pinikpikan too. Dun ko siya natikman. Masarap. Pero naawa ako sa manok. huhuhuhu.
Its preparation is apparently inhumane according to some animal activist but it has been part of the traditions and rituals of the Cordillera tribes for hundreds of years.
So classic, very natural, Philippine province. Pinikpikan in greens and mountains. Nice post ms.claire
Thank you Renevic, parang lalong sumarap yung pinikpikan dahil sa view
Never had pinikpikan, and since I no longer eat chicken, I don’t think I ever will. But it’s a great place to have lunch in, with the locals pa
That’s the way travel should be 
Just think of a richer and tastier tinola if you had one before and that’s how it tasted for me.
I’m too chicken (yes, pun intended ;D) to try pinikpikan. Di ko kasi ata kayang isipin na tinorture yung manok bago niluto. I’m by all means no vegetarian pero parang di ko kaya lumunok ng dish na yan sa two instances I’ve been to Sagada and countless times I’ve been in Baguio. Haha!
I’ll take your word for it na lang na masarap nga sya, Claire.
I can’t blame you for that Mel. It’s not something I’m going to crave in the near future but it was nice finally tasting this famous Cordilleran dish.
The first time I had pinikpikan was in Sagada. We were invited by locals too. Di ko masyado napanood pagprepare, it was evening and I had too much alcohol! I don’t mind its, well, brutal preparation. Because in reality, a lot of chickens are bred/raised brutally anyway. Like, speeding up their growth speed. Hahaha! Bitter?
You a have point there, it’s really a matter of choice. Ika nga trip trip lang yan
never realized this was about the carnival.. hehe nacarried away ako and I started imagining the chicken – beaten to death.
Oo nga, isiningit ko lang in between road trip diaries para umabot sa deadline ng carnival.
Hehe, di ka naawa sa chicken?
Wow, galing naman, bute kpa me entry na 
Eto talaga pangarap ko puntahan ngeon, hai… Sagada, when will I see you?
Ok lang din kasi parang nasanay na rin, pinapanood ko kasi dati lagi tatay ko magkatay ng manok at medyo excited habang pinapanood si kuya, feeling ko kasi nasa Discovery Channel ako habang pinapanood ang isang ritwal ng mga katutubo
Parang typical lang na climber ah.. I only been to rice terraces in Pagadian City but this this one seems to be nicer.. Parang 100% ready to harvest hehe We have tried na inihaw na manok on one of our climbs.. Walang masarap sa gutom hehe but it is delicious indeed!
hahah tama!, Lahat masarap talaga kapag gutom, kahit nga de lata lang sobrang sarap kainin sa bundok lalo na kapag pagod at gutom
Rice terraces really captured my imagination since childhood and my desire to see one had boosted upon reading your post. Being a rural boy, native chicken delicacies are really my favorite, and I am looking forward at savoring Pinikpikan in the very near future.
Same here Kuya, it’s one of those beautiful spots in the Philippines that I get to see only on textbooks and postcards so it was really a dream come true for me when we visited the Mountain Province. Getting invited to try pinikpikan made the whole experience even memorable.
great post and I especially enjoyed the pictures.
Wow! toploading ah… i’ve never tried that…
walking confidently talaga kahit may dala-dala sa ulo nila… ang galing! sa ganyan din daw natuto maglakad si Venus Raj eh… hehehe!!!
so nice naman nung nakilala nyo at in-invite kayu sa house nila…
di ko yata kaya kumain nyan… pero maybe out of respect, i would love to try it some time…
Masarap naman sya Mervin, try mo kahit doon sa Baguio o Sagada.
ay.. yan pala ang etag…pinikpikan a friend told me to try it.. but puzzled what is it…ay.. sayang.. dapat pala pinagbigyan ko siya..
Ako din akala ko noong una ito yung chicken dish na niluluto sa sabaw ng buko
At least natikman ko na rin sa wakas.
I always look forward to your blog… I love to try local foods when traveling…trying something I have never had before is interesting plus you learn something about the area and the people.
http://jpweddingphotograpy.blogspot.com/2011/07/grand-canyon-part-two.html
Yeah, trying local delicacies of other places is one of the reasons why I love traveling. It is an adventure in itself
hi
i have some questions,
from drop-off point to the village, how long was the trek?
you need to trek to see the Maligcong rice terraces right? unlike the others which has a viewpoint along the road.
rate from 1-5 [5 hardest] the actual trek [i'm asking because i might bring my kids with me]
does “Kuya” has a name?
thanks ms claire
I think less than an hour until the first village where the school is located. It’s an easy trek for me. You will walk on cemented path on most parts and a few steep sections have railings.
oh pinikpikan! looks really yummy. beautiful captures of the fresh green paddies. cordillera is just amazing.
I think you can’t go wrong with your pictures of the lush rice paddies.
animal rights activists are not surely happy with this traditional way of cooking. but i did try this years ago in itogon, benguet and …. really didn’t like the earthy-taste of it.
If we didn’t trek and my stomach wasn’t grumbling that time, I’m pretty sure I would be able to resist trying the pinikpikan
I dont know what’s the equivalent of pinikpikan here in Bukidnon. I think it’s like a “lagpang” here or “Linagpang” in Visayas. Neweys, what I am interested in is on how it was prepared. To know the preparation is to visit Bontoc and learn on how it was done. I am pretty sure that charles really enjoyed the native meal.
.
It’s a thicker and tastier version of Tinola Kuya Bon, but yeah it’s more interesting to be able to see the whole process of making one.
what a wonderful sight to see.. lovely green sceneries! haven’t tried that, and i’m not sure if I’m allowed to eat that (due to my religion). Super like your porma!
hahaha porma ng ayaw umitim
Honestly, the first time I tried it. I did not like it. LOL! It was too fishy, prepared the old-fashioned way, which is the way it should be. Later on, I tasted the more modern version in Bontoc (with lots of ginger to take away that fishy taste). That, I like it better!
I think we were just too hungry to notice the fishy or earthy taste so it turned out to be one satisfying meal
Ang ganda ng terraces, green na green talaga.
Nasubukan ko rin dati tumikim ng pinikpikan, the chicken meat’s a bit hardy but it is very tasty. =]
Siguro dapat pinakuluan muna ng todo o kaya 45 days na lang ang kinatay para madali lumambot
cant be more authenthic than this! ganda ng rice terraces…. i miss the mountains tuloy!
You guys are true cowboys! I am adventurous with food but I do not relish watching how the dish is prepared esp when it involves a live bird or a 4 legged animal.
wow…ms.claire kainggit naman kayo, sarap siguro nun, sana makabalik ulit ako ng Sagada at makatikim ng Pinikpikan in Rice Terracesa pa…Astig……^_^
naku.. dapat ko to masubukas sa october
) *excited
Sarap naman basahin ng post nyo Ms.Claire..
Nakakagutom…
sarap niyan mainit na sabaw tas nsa malamig na bundok. =)
authentic mountain food! nice.