ROAD TRIP DIARIES # 17
Acres of pine forest, herds of Brahman cattle sauntering down the middle of the road and the wettest rainforest we had seen so far were all I could remember about driving from Tyto Wetlands to our camping ground the previous day. I woke up a tad disoriented about where we were. I must have drifted into sleep on our way to the campsite and it didn’t help that it was already dark when we arrived.
I felt like I was in another world when I pulled away the curtain inside our camper van. I could not see a single thing beyond the cold glass windows. The whole campground was cloaked in thick fog with only the relentless rain dripping on our roof reminding us that we had finally made it to Girringun National Park.
It had been raining the whole night and this morning was one of those days where snuggling under warm sheets, reading my favourite book while sipping bottomless hot jasmine tea seemed way more appealing than venturing into the wet and cold surroundings. Charles and I agreed to wait a bit for things to clear up, which didn’t take that long really because our restlessness stood in the way.
Still drizzling, we set off to the lookout all excited to see Australia’s highest single-drop waterfall. Despite the forlorn weather, the thought of exploring a World Heritage Area was enough to drag us out of our hibernation. Wallaman Falls is part of the Wet Tropics and is home to some of the oldest rainforest on earth and many rare plants and animals.
After finding a parking spot, we dashed to the nearby lookout only to find a massive abyss of nothingness. There was nothing to see! Much to our disappointment, the 50 million year old geological wonder was all veiled in clouds, completely hidden by the impenetrable haze. We could hear, however, the thundering sound of the raging falls and sense how enormous the gorge was into which it plunged, but that was all.
There was another lookout at the base of the falls but I reckoned with this kind of fog our chance of seeing it down below was also bleak. I was about to give up and propose moving on to our next destination, but then Charles suggested it would still be fun to do the rainforest walk to the base of the falls.
The track was quite challenging and perhaps the most difficult walk we have done so far. The first section of the trail was a gradually descending paved path, but the rest was steep, rocky, muddy and slippery. It was an impressive rainforest – dense and constantly dripping with the rain. There were interesting bits of information posted along the path about Australia’s flora and fauna.
It was through this walk that I learned the mystery behind those patches of burned forest we had seen on our previous treks. Apparently controlled burning stimulates the growth of some desirable trees and reduces the likelihood of serious forest fires.
On the way down, we met another trekker who told us that he was able to see the falls from the bottom. He raved about how spectacular it was, which somehow gave me renewed energy and enthusiasm to pick up my sluggish pace. The thundering surge of water became louder as we approached its base. And then we saw it… a 305 meters single drop waterfall plunging into a magnificent gorge.
The sheer size of the ravine was breathtaking; we were likes drops in a bucket in the scale of things. Although the top section of the falls was still covered in mist, it was still a very rewarding trek. We were the only people at the lookout and were able to enjoy the scenery in silence. After a while another couple arrived at the lookout and with one last glance, we bid our farewell to Wallaman Falls and braced ourselves for the tough ascent.
We were back to civilization by noontime, replenishing our food supplies, filling up petrol and catching up with the World Wide Web. An online friend who lives in Queensland found out we were in Ingham and commented on my status to check out 5 Mile Creek. It was on our way to Cardwell and easily accessible so we visited it after lunchtime.
It was a struggle in the beginning but I did it! After two weeks on the road and countless swimming holes, I finally plunged myself into my first freshwater pool. It isn’t that cold once you are in the water, you just have to get past the initial quiver. It was a refreshing way to end the day. Now, if only I could work out the crocodile part then no creek would be left untouched from now on. 
5 Mile Creek: To Dip or Not to Dip?
(This is part of our 6-week North Queensland Road Trip Series, which took place July- August 2010)
Australian Road Trip 101: A Vantastic Beginning
Road Trip Diaries # 1 – An Encounter with the Strangest Animal in the World
Road Trip Diaries # 2 – Of Strangler Figs, Leeches and Long Holidays
Road Trip Diaries # 3 - Exploring Finch Hatton Gorge
Road Trip Diaries # 4 – Cape Hillsborough: On Bush Walks Beach Strolls and Star Gazing
Road Trip Diaries # 5 – Cape Hillsborough: Sunrise and Wild Kangaroos
Road Trip Diaries # 6 – Airlie Beach: Beaches Babes and Backpackers
Road Trip Diaries # 7 – Ocean Rafting to the Whitsundays
Road Trip Diaries # 8 – Unexpected Encounters
Road Trip Diaries # 9 – Exploring Bowenwood
Road Trip Diaries # 10 – Townsville: Finding Nemo and the Sunken Pandora
Road Trip Diaries # 11 – A Visit at the Billabong Sanctuary and Castle Hill
Road Trip Diaries # 12 – Magnetic Island: What Captain Cook Missed
Road Trip Diaries # 13 – Paluma Range National Park: A Walk in the Clouds
Road Trip Diaries # 14 – Of Didgeridoo, Exotic Fruits and Why I love Camping in the Bush
Road Trip Diaries # 15 – Jourama Falls: A Gray Nomad Affair
Road Trip Diarues # 16 – The Bird Man of Tyto Wetlands
Magnificent photos. I especially like the one at the bottom of the falls with Charles (I assume) in the foreground. You give the viewer a real sense of the scale of the waterfalls and rocks. I like the one of you “To dip or not to dip” – really cute and the water looks lovely.
Thanks Mari, yeah that’s Charles dwarfed by the ravine and the raging falls.
Love the photos especially the last one. Seems like Australia is one big national park. Scenic places everywhere.
Indeed, we used to have equally magnificent natural parks but then only few are left now. Hope it’s not too late to save the remaining ones.
We have also a local version of controlled burning of old forest trees, and that is the “kaingin” system. The deep meaning of “kaingin” is also to stimulate the growth of new bloom and desirable trees in the forested areas. How scenic is the place and very quaint road on the way to the wallaman falls. It’s a thundering falls. I like it.
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Good to know that Kuya Bon, I thought kaingin is done to use the land for vegetation purposes or to roll out new crops.
That’s adopted In a modern way.
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This where I’ve read about the deep meaning of kaingin. It changed my perception about kaingin….http://www.mindanews.com/2011/06/26/someone-else%E2%80%99s-windows-kaingin-the-lumad-way/
The falls is indeed spectacular. Would you know if any daredevil has jumped from the top? That would be quite a feat!
Hmm, I don’t think anyone would ever jump from the top of Wallaman Falls, abseil perhaps. But you’ll never know
I believe a local Cairns base jumper was killed after attempting a base jump from the top , sometimes last year or the year before.
@ Mark – I just googled the news about it Mark after you’ve mentioned it. What a tragic incident
@ Aleah – i just found an awesome video of base jumping at Wallaman Falls. Wish I could also base jump one day
picture pa lang, wow na.. pano na lang pag anjan ka na talaga.. (The picture look so awesome, what more if you’re there for real..)
talagang trumatranslate pa.. heheh.. anyways, nice shots po
hahaha, bakit merong translation?
Love the photo of the falls. May misty-foggy effect pa ah, ala Fork, Washington/Twilight (eww) Hahaha
Pwede, excellent haven for vampires and werewolves
amazing! beautiful! i really dont know why i love misty spots.
It must be the connection we make out of it. Like for me, misty spots conjure images of mountain peaks, Baguio holidays, early morning lethargy and mostly happy memories
OMG so beautiful Claire!!! LOve love love!!! I’m so in love with the ist photo!! Really amazing!!! I wish i can visit this place someday!!
It’s quite an impressive falls indeed but we do have our own version and equally spectacular falls.
Wow! Amazing photos! Especially the full length shot of the waterfalls. Wish I could travel as much as you
Thanks Joei, I don’t really travel much, just a few times each year. These recent posts are just my backlogs from previous trips
OMG. So beautiful! And the trail looks so inviting!
P.S. 305 meters is quite tall. Couldn’t recall seeing falls as tall as that. Maybe in the future.
I’m not sure if it was the highest falls I’ve seen as well but my ultimate dream is to see Angel Falls someday
undeniably stunning. ganda ng falls! kakamangha
mysterious effect ang fog and cold weather sa jinda walk, cool!
Yeah I also like the mysterious effect of the fog but not so much when hiking already.
I love the mystical mood of the trail… Greeted by a gigantic falls such as this is really worth the trek.
Sobrang sulit talaga nakakawala ng pagod
Another good piece Claire and of course the accompanying pictures are fantastic as usual.
Thank you Mark.
the falls is awesome. nice established trail. and the trees and fog, twilight
Yeah that’s the good thing about their national parks, you could easily explore them without a guide, the trails are well marked.
Wow. Yun lang
Ang laki ng falls!!!
And that last photo, eherm, sexyness! =P
Fantastic! That falls is huge! I could imagine a water spray on my face!
Yeah the water spray could reach the lookout, I had to wipe my lens before and after taking pictures.
truly impressive! did anybody take a dip in the water near that gigantic falls? like really near it? just curious. pero claire, ikaw na rin ang daring darling ng PTB!
I’m not sure, I think it’s too cold. (Why daring? I haven’t really tried anything daring in my life – not yet
I really never seen a real waterfalls in my life that’s why I’m excited to read about this. Even though its misty, the Wallaman Falls is still a sight to behold! And you captured it well under the lens…
Its nice to see paved walkway in the national park. I know that waterfalls are mostly located deep inside the forests and its a hard trek finding it when guided walkways are not pave. Didn’t you feel a croc might just pop out in the creek in the last pic? It seems croc-paranoid creek for me.
There is no croc here and there’s usually a warning sign if the water’s croc infested